Way of St James 2024 – Blog

And they’re off!!! Our group are on their way to Singapore for a quick stop before carrying onto Paris…..

A day in Singapore. The flight was not too bad by all accounts but we were super tired and ready for bed. Morning at Gardens by the Bay with the Monet theme was extraordinary. We loved how they integrated Monet’s art aesthetic with with gardens and displays.

We delighted in the sculptures around the outdoor gardens before splitting off and having various independent activities. We finished the day with a lovely cheap eat at Komala Vilas just around corner from the hotel.

A 13 hour flight but with the dawn chasing behind us, we had a lot of time to sleep and try to reset our body clocks a bit. Once landed we took the transfer to the hotel and gathered again for a cuppa with the whole group.

In the afternoon a few of us went for a walk along the Paris highline Coulée Verte René-Dumont while others went exploring on the hop on hop off bus.

First day walking around Paris. Le Marais in the morning and then the Latin Quarter in the afternoon. Great team. Loved the impromptu Art critiques of the sculptures along the riverside! Beautiful day, beautiful people, beautiful vibe!

This day in Paris was free in the morning but a trip to Montmartre to soak up the bohemian vibe and then listen to vespers at Sacre-Couer basillica. Many of us opted to try out absynth… probably the last time we do that!

A great day for travel from Paris to Lyon on a TGV clocking at nearly 300km/h in some parts. Arrived in Lyon and meet our local guide, Olivier and our trusty driver Eduardo. We then head into the old town on foot and have lunch. After lunch we’re on the bus to Le Puy-en-Velay which is one of the most delightful towns in our trip.

Today we went for three walks. First around the town and up to Le Puy cathedral to see St Jacques, touch the healing stone and admire the black madonna and child before climbing up to the massive iron structure of Notre Dame du Le Puy. After lunch some climbed 266 steps to see St Michel D’alghuile church and others went along a 5km stretch of the camino out of the town.

We leave Le Puy to head along the pilgrim path via Pau, Conques and into Moissac. We have a wonderful pair of walks, either along the ridge line or the riverside into Espalion—a delightful town filled with Renaissance architecture. Those who took the ridge line route were delighted by spectacular views and a wee visit to the “Madonna with the crazy hands” (as I like to refer to it). She was sadly vandalised and her hands were broken off—they were replaced with well, I think they were just concrete poured into washing gloves.

When we arrived at Conques we had a great meal at the hotel with our rooms looking over at the 12th century bridge.

A morning walk around Cahors where we explore the home of the Malbec grape and walk along the Devil’s Bridge. Heading off we have lunch at Lauzerte with amazing views. On the way to Moissac a group head off for the longer walk into Moissac.

Having a morning in Moissac to look at the “canal across the river” bridge. Then to the town of Auvillar where two of our intrepid pilgrims set out for their 21km walk. The rest of the group started at Boudou or a bit further down toward the canals for a balmy afternoon walk.

This the last leg in France! How time flies… From Moissac we pass through Pau for a quick lunch and then some afternoon walks. Our final walk takes us through the Pilgrims’ Gate at St Jean-de-pied-de-port. Some of us used the following blessing from John O’Donaghue as we passed through:

On the day when
the weight deadens
on your shoulders
and you stumble,
may the clay dance
to balance you.

And when your eyes
freeze behind
the grey window
and the ghost of loss
gets into you,
may a flock of colours,
indigo, red, green
and azure blue,
come to awaken in you
a meadow of delight.

When the canvas frays
in the currach of thought
and a stain of ocean
blackens beneath you,
may there come across the waters
a path of yellow moonlight
to bring you safely home.

May the nourishment of the earth be yours,
may the clarity of light be yours,
may the fluency of the ocean be yours,
may the protection of the ancestors be yours.

And so may a slow
wind work these words
of love around you,
an invisible cloak
to mind your life.

—John O’Donohue

Up early to head on to the Pyreneesa and pass over the border into Spain. Beautiful walk through alpine forests, across streams on stone bridges and through the beech trees from Roncesvalles to Espanal. We’re starting to see more pilgrims on the way. And now the famous yellow arrows start to point the way!

A walk around the old town in the morning and stepping into the St Jaques Cathedral. Then a trip via Santo Domingo de la Calzada to find out about the Saint surrounded by chickens. A nice picnic lunch by a river and off to start some forrest walks into San Juan d’Ortega. Then to the hotel in Burgos before heading out for dinner at a local restaurant. A big day.

A day off! Those who wanted to could join us for a quick walk around Burgos town center and then into the Burgos Cathedral that left us quite stunned by it’s beauty and, dare I say, ostentatiousness. Then others went to the Museum of Evolution—not far from Burgos is one of the most historic excavations showing tens of thousands of years of evolution of humans.

Leaving Burgos we travel to some of the plains of Spain where it was indeed raining (yes the joke was repeated). We were dropped off for a short walk into Hontanas for a coffee and a quick look at the ecumenical Church there.

Then a walk along irrigation canals to lunch in Fromista before the final urban walk into León.

It was wet this morning a wee walk around the old town of León (sneak peek at some of the shops on the way). Coffee in the square. The weather began to clear though still brisk and windy. We resumed the journey westward to the highest point on the Camino known as Cruz de Ferro. Traditionally pilgrims have left stones here to symbolise letting go or laying to rest something of significance. One of us read the pilgrims prayer while we paused to consider the centuries of pilgrims’ stones.

Again on the bus to Molineseca for 8km walk into Ponferrada.

A short walk to look at the Templar Castle before heading off to O’Cebreiro—a little Celtic village high up in the mountain range. Cold and misty in the clouds but a beautiful warm and simple church to visit.

Then to lunch in Portomarin before our walk from Melide to Boente. Melide is a major convergence of several camino routes so the pathway starts to get packed.

A stop at Monte de Gozo for photos before walking through the pilgrims’ gate into Santiago de Compostela proper. A big day to arrive and think back on the trip.

Today was a simple but lovely day as we travel to Cape Finisterre—the end of the earth. We stopped of at the delightful village of Ponte Maceira to look at some disused water driven grain mills and an ancient bridge.

A stop in the Marina town of Muros and then picnic lunch at the beach just before Finisterre. We had a brief moment to burn the things we had carried with us (letters to ourselves, a string bracelet and bead, a sock and the insole of a shoe)—it was safe inside a burner I made in NZ.

Some walked from the beach to the cape and others a bit later but we all joined to look into the distance and imagine what it must have felt like thinking there was nothing beyond it.

It was a free day today. Many of us opted to go to the Pilgrim’s Mass that is held in the cathedral at midday. We thought we’d get there early and were surprised how few seats were available. Some of us had to sit on the floor! It was an impressive service and the botafumero swung to the sound of singing and massive organ music.

After we went to find somewhere to decompress for lunch—it was a bit windy outside so we opted for indoor seating.

Saying goodbye to Santiago was a bit of an anticlimax. I admit that I’m wondering how different the process would have been if we had to walk back home like in the olden times.

So, this was a pretty unremarkable travel day—though some took the opportunity to head to the Santiago markets. Then it was airport waiting, flying and arriving. A bus transfer to the hotel and dinner.

The day in Barcelona was full. Our group is pretty independent and organised themselves to go to Picasso Museum, markets, Park Guëll or to the waterfront before gathering at 2pm for our local guide to take us around the Sagrada Familia, the Gothic quarter and then to finish our tour off at a flamenco show. Fantastic end to the group being together.

Basically half the group are staying on to travel elsewhere. So a number of good byes and see you agains. It was a great group and a pleasure to lead.