Taste of Colombia 2024 – Blog

And we’re off!! Next stop Santiago…. happily the flight was a smooth one and before we knew it we were in Chile. For many in the group this was the first time ever in South America, so an exciting day. A quick process through passport and customs and we were quickly on our way to our hotel – even the traffic was light and fast flowing.

After an opportunity to freshen up, some of us went for a walk in the nearby park, some for a swim in the hotel pool, others a nap and even some hardy souls shopping in the mall next door.

At our welcome dinner we met our local guide, Walter Raffills and encountered the warm hospitality of the Chilean people.

It was another warm and sunny day as we travelled south west to the Maipo Valley. Our first stop was Odifell Organic Vineyard. Set into the slope of the hills, we could see across the valley to the distant hills and north to the Andes. Jose, our charming vineyard guide did his best to recover from firstly calling us Americans and then secondly trying to understand what we were saying. The walk down to the vines and to meet the horses in the warm sun was just what we needed to get over jetlag. Jose let us try the white, the rose and of course the red.

Travelling further south we found ourselves in Las Araucarias, a vineyard hidden away in its own micro climate. Lunch, almost el fresco was delicious and the pisco sours were particularly good.

Nancy the winemaker then walked us around the property and provided a very thorough explanation of the harvest and wine making process. She did well with Walter providing the translation from Spanish into English. After even more wine tasting, we returned to Santiago and an opportunity for an early night.

Another beautiful day in Chile and we start our exploration of the historic centre with a drive around some of it more famous streets. The flavour of the neighbourhoods with their small parks, tree lined avenues and of course selection of restaurants, cafes and bars. Santiago is particularly charming with its Sycamore trees providing shade and colour.

We stopped in the centre, where we could appreciate the sharp contrast between colonial style architecture and modern buildings. I am positive the original Spanish conquistors had no idea how Santiago would develop and change over the centuries.

Walking in the centre we paused at the Presidential Palace and moved through the busy narrow streets filled with the sounds of buskers and orchestral music. Walter provided an excellent briefing on Pre-Colombian history and something of the life of the indigenous people at the Museum.

Last stop was Plaza de Armas, a huge square with all the most important buildings: the cathedral, the post office, the city hall and the president’s office.

We had earnt our lunch in a converted Park Keeper’s cottage!

Then it was sadly time to say goodbye to Walter and Chile as we flew on to Bogota, Colombia (6 hours). Thankfully passport control and meeting the local guide were all straightforward. Tomorrow, we will wake up to explore a new country.

Bogota turned on the weather with a stunning day which started cloudy and then was sunshine til the sun went down. Our hotel, Hotel de la Opera is in the middle of the Candelaria district – colour, music, crafts and restaurants. It also has hills and narrow cobbled streets.

As our guide Diana Rodriguez walked and talked, we covered the district and key topics of Colombia and Bogota. First stop was coffee and coca tea with a chance to sit in the shade surrounded by art.

We then walked through the mural lined street arriving at the Traditional Marketplace and had potato, sweetcorn soup flavoured with optional avocado, cream and capers.

Walked on we progressed down to Bolivar Square with Bogota’s most important buildings on each side. Final stop was the Musuem of Gold and then we made our way back to the hotel passing the jewelry district and other significant museums.

Despite a weather forecast of rain, we had a day of sunshine. We started the day by skirting the city on the northeastern side along the hillside. Moving through the wealthier suburbs, we arrived at Chapinero district. There was a minor domestic on a street corner as Mandy and the local guide had a discussion about what the focus of the morning should be – walking in the suburbs or visiting the street market… end result – the bus was recalled, and we went to the Sunday market. This fantastic market was fill of artisan stalls and a very happy time was had as most of us shopped for gifts or that must-have souvenir from Colombia.

Returning to the bus we made our way to the Farmers Market (Mercado de la Tierra). Full of produces of organic products, vegetables, fruits and enthusiasm. During our visit we were personally introduced to the growers and producers – they were so pleased to see us and let us sample their amazing food. The lunch they provided from all the produce from the market was something else. We felt like quite the stars with the photos and smiles.

On our way to the airport, we took in more of the views across the city, the colourful restaurant area, the converted bull ring and the high rises of modern Bogota.

At the airport it was ‘Hunt the Gate’ as our departure gate was changed several times, However we finally all got to the right one and arrived in Armenia in the dark. Coffee farm tomorrow!

We woke to chirping birds and views of green hills – yes we are in the coffee region. As much as possible, there are planted hibiscus and other brightly coloured flowers… so we are surrounded by colour – yellow, orange, red, green and flashes of purple and blue.

Jairo Buitrago and our driver picked us at 9am and we drove to Buena Vista where we transferred over to Jeepneys. These converted WWII American jeeps are 70 years old and well cared for on the outside. Inside, we can see all the repairs by wire, welding and patches. Usually, they can fit 13 into a Jeep Willy but we were a comfortable 4 per vehicle.

Zooming into the hills, we had a short ride to San Alberto Coffee Farm. Of course, we started our coffee tasting experience with a cup of coffee and then we discovered just how steep the hillsides are. Up, up and further up we went on the narrow path to reach the flat area of the coffee processing plant and an area of planted trees.

Christo was a great guide and he explained everything about growing the trees, how to select the best beans, what happens after harvest and some of the secrets of choosing the best beans for the best coffee.

Back at the Hacienda, it was coffee tasting time! Poor Christo, on masse we chose the worst coffee in its dry form! A wonderful aroma – however it did improve once hot water was added and the true flavours of the coffee appeared.

For some it was back in the Jeepneys and a thrilling ride over the hill to the next village Pijao. This small tranquil town was our lunch place and we most of us chose Bandeja Pasia, a traditional dish, a giant plate of beans, sausage, ground meat, avocado, pork rind, fried egg, rice, plantain and arepas. Even though there were groans of too much food when dessert arrived – chocolate blancmange was also eaten. As a special treat we tried the local red wine, so drinkable I brought three bottles for us to enjoy later.

The day ended with a road works delay – yes even in rural Colombia an Aucklander can find traffic delays.

At 6.30pm we gathered for a social drink at the bar and then a delicious dinner prepared at the Resort restaurant. Great Day!

Chocolate! The food of the Gods, or as I like to say medicine for a sad heart. We were warmly welcomed to Casa Rivera del Cacao by our hosts Don Jose Luis and Ana Marie, his wife.

Our first experience was grinding the raw beans into a cacao paste. We could immediately see the natural butter oozing through the darker cacao fibre. The smell was incredible: chocolate, caramel, sweet and bitter!

From the grinding, the paste was then mixed with cacao butter and sugar in carefully measured quantities and set to be churned by stone rollers to make the coarse paste into a smooth chocolate liquid.

Don Jose was full of stories and information. We heard about vanilla, avocado and cacao. The walk to the river and up a terrace in the planation was memorable.

Returning to the hacienda we had time to talk about the history of chocolate, Don Jose and Anna Marie’s back story and to enjoy lunch.

Dessert was the chocolate we had helped prepare. This dark, smooth chocolate was pure in taste and full of flavour.

Lastly, we had a rum tasting along with the history of Colombian spirits. The flavours ranged from amber light rum to dark, smokey notes. Amarillo was the final tasting and delicious with chocolate chunks.

We were on the road again as we left Armenia and travelled to Finlandia. This traditional coffee town is considered the prettiest in Quindio. The square was surrounded by brightly coloured buildings, people and flowers.

First stop for us was the Basket Weaving Musuem/Institute. Our local guide was a young man, Juan who decided to learn basket weaving to keep a tradition alive. It’s surprising how many different baskets were used in a traditional Colombia farm: some for the raw coffee beans, some for the husks, others for larger loads and some just for shopping. To experience how skilled these artisans are, we were invited to make our own baskets – some of us were more successful than others.

After all our hard work laughing, we needed coffee and cake. Wouldn’t you know it as we were in the cafe, the heavens opened with a deluge of rain. As Jairo said, “Finlandia has a broken sky, meaning it rains often and unexpectedly. Despite the rain we had some free time looking at the shops and the architecture.

The day ended with a drive to Salento, our hill top village home for two nights.

It was Joy’s birthday so we managed to fit into Mandy’s room and consume the three bottles of delicious red wine we got at Pijao. It was very nice drop and was soon all gone.

Some of us walked up the hill to the Italian restaurant and enjoyed a cheap and cheerful meal of pasta or pizza.

Three colourful Jeep Willys turned up in the morning, so we loaded ourselves into these WWII vehicles to zoom along the country lanes up to the Cocora Valley Reserve. Passing horses, avocado farms, waterfalls and eucalyptus trees. It was quite a ride.

Arriving at the carpark, we started our first slope, up towards the park entrance. There were many tourists about and on the breeze could be heard: French, Italian, English, Canadian, German and so on.

The path sloped up the side of the valley but firstly we needed to see those amazing wax palms up close and personal. Rising to 70m above our heads, the wax palm is a national symbol of Colombia.

The bird lovers amongst us were on the lookout for a condor. These majestic birds can be found riding the wind through the valley. Would you know it we found one resting in a wax palm.

Just as we were getting started, there were sprinkles of water. By the time we got back to the Jeep Willys, it was serious rain. Thankfully we were due at Palmas de Cocora for another traditional meal and some of the local fruit juice. Lulu seems to be popular in the group.

Sated we got back in the Jeeps to return to Salento and try our hand at Tejo. I can’t say we were very good but some of us managed to hit the gunpowder packets just right and there was a huge bang and even a small fire.

The day ended with a nice social time and some of us walked up to Camino Real for a fun meal with a young waiter who tried his very best to understand us and get our meals.

Sadly it was time to say goodbye to the Coffee Region and our excellent guide Jairo. Jairo liked to quiz us on what we had done, what we had seen and what we had been told…. so we turned the tables in him with a quiz on New Zealand. It appears he did as well as we did.

After a very quick flight, we were in Medellin. Our local guide Sol Saenz Arias greeted us, and we were transported to Santa Elena, the village of flowers. This small village has had generations of flower growers and their produce is exported to the world.

Our visit in the village was with Jose Ignuero “Nacho” to his house and garden. Nacho was very hospitable and provided a yummy snack of fresh fruits from his garden and that of his neighbours. After we were refreshed, Nacho explained how the tradition of ‘silletas’ and the Festival of Flowers came about. His happy nature was testament to the joy of growing and living with flowers.

On our way to our hotel in Medellin, we had a very late lunch at a roadside restaurant. Traditional food which everyone seemed to enjoy. Our bus driver was very good in avoiding the worst of the peak hour traffic and we arrived that the hotel as the sun was setting.

Time for a rest and a full day tomorrow.

Might need a cuppa when read about this day as it was full on. We started at our usual 9am and headed South towards Commune 13. Even though it was Saturday, the traffic was heavy.

First stop was the aerial metro. This cable car system extended across the valley and over the hill to the next one. The views were panoramic, and we could see the juggle of houses below and the buildings climbing up the steep valley walls.

Catching our breath, again we maneuvered through the narrow streets lined with motorbikes, vendors and people to the Community House of the Graffiti Artists. This non-profit organisation grew out of the artistic, social and political movement created by graffiti artists, musicians, hip-hop dancers and other young people. Our local guide was “Tatam”, a hip-hop dancer.

After an introduction to the art and current activities of the Community House we tried our hand at tagging – some of us proved quite artistic.

Time to hit the slopes as our private van gave us a short ride part way up the hill and then we climbed up the winding pavements through the houses, shops, loud music, painted walls, bustling people. Commune 13 was once the illegal settlement of poor people who came to Medellin in the 1950s. Inhabitants of the area were involved with the drug trade and then became the target of government and para military raids. The graffiti movement began as a protest movement and continues today as an expression of social comment.

“Tatam”, through Sol explained some of this history and also wanted to express how the Commune had moved from fear to hope as the infrastructure, cable metro, outdoor escalators and recognition by the government allowed inhabitants of Commune 13 to have access to education, work and public services. It put our first world problems into perspective.

A much needed lunch was served in a beautiful restaurant in the Botanical Gardens. It was late (2pm) and we welcomed the cool fruit juices, plentiful dishes and pleasant surrondings.

Our last activity for the day was a non-touristy place – the site of a previous rubbish dump in Medellin. Again, this area had been the illegal residences of the poor arriving into Medellin. There was a major bus stop next to a vacant area and the dwellings made from whatever could be found. The 70m high hill made from the city’s rubbish was picked over by the illegals and even the children became experts in finding what could be recycled, used, eaten or re-purposed.

The illegal neighbourhood was recognised by the government and the shanty town rebuilt with better housing, and today is called Moavia. We had the opportunity to visit the Community Centre and meet a local community worker Elias. Elias explained the history and how the garbage hill was eventually reduced to 30m and planted as a garden. Sadly, the garden is no more as further illegal immigrants occupied the area during the pandemic.

Back to the hotel and a stop for a social drink at the bar.

Some for us went for a walk in the neighbourhood, discovering the many people out walking, jogging, biking and skating. On Sunday one of the lanes of the major road artery is closed to traffic and opened for the public to use – very nice.

My group of keen walkers went north to the Virgen Rosa Mistica shrine on the corner. Even early in the morning people were there lighting candles and praying.

We then went further on to the Memorial Garden to have a look at the wall pierced with 49,912 holes to represent the known victims of the drug wars. At night the holes are lit up and make a memorable sight.

10.30am and we were off to Medellin airport for our midday flight to Cartagena – oh yes the tropics were waiting for us.

At Cartagena our local guide, Jacinto Jimenez “JJ”, greeted us with a warm smile, a bit of cha cha and a joke.

The Hotel Charleton Santa Teresa was a convent and has been beautifully converted into a luxury hotel. We are in the middle of the historic area, close to the sea wall and have an amazing view of the sunset from the Terrace Pool and Bar on the 7th floor.

After a cooling drink on the terrace, most of us went out for dinner at Mare Restaurant. Delicious, now its time for sleep.

A 10am start today, walking out into the sunshine and colour of historic Cartagena. JJ took time to explain the architecture, doors and meaning behind what we were seeing. Heading north we circled through the town, up on the walls and through the narrow lanes passing hotels, churches, squares and lots of shops, cafes and private houses. At first the town was quiet and then it filled with tourists; local people selling their wares on the pavement, colourful ladies posing for photos, horse drawn carriages and very optimistic cars.

After a break at the quirky cafe we headed off to the other side of town, Gestemani which was even more colouful with its wall murals and overhead street decorations.

The afternoon was ours to do what we wanted. We got together at 6pm in Mandy’s room to chat and socialise. Doug kindly showed us some of his art work and explained his process – one day we’ll be able to say “We knew him”.

Dinner was at the one of the top 50 bars in the world and top voted bar in Colombia! We did stand out being several years older than most of the patrons. We found the food was nice and the waiter tried really hard to do his job well. Drinks: $35 NZ for a Gin & Tonic!

To get up close to the local people, we started the day Bazurto Market, a traditional market offering fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, herbs and clothing. The kitchen/dining room was unbelievably hot with the open pots full of rice and seafood… the smell was amazing. Everything seemed in chaotic order: the narrow lanes busy with shoppers, the men pushing carts of produce, loud music and bargaining.

JJ walked through most of the sections so we could see the vast array of food sold. We tasted some of the fruit including the infamous Lulu.

We had a brief stop on the way to the cooking school to try the local beer – it was very welcome after the heat and noise of the market.

John, our chef was waiting for us with his two assistants. They had already been to the market and purchased the fresh fish, vegetables and fruit for our cooking lesson and lunch.

First off we prepared passionfruit juice – something cooling on this hot day. We went to make salad, “patacon” (plantain deep fried mega-chips), fish ceviche, mango mouse, coconut-milk rice and fried rice. All in all, delicious.

Back in the van we headed over to the Pico Red neighbourhood and our cocktail making class. The enthusiastic young people here were very pleased to see us and were greeted with huge smiles. The cocktails started off with a traditional base such as Gin & Tonic and then our mixologist added a Carribean twist – some passionfruit, some lulu and voila we had something interesting, tasty and unique to the region.

Then off to the hotel for a rest in a dark room for some of us or shopping for others. Some of us met on the roof for a cloudless sunset. It was beautiful.

Tonight, the restaurant was a local Italian Bentito which proved to be very popular with a queue forming outside as we enjoyed our simple but delicious meal. Last stop of the evening was gelato shop for a yummy cone.

It was up the coast this morning to La Boquilla, an afro descendant fishing village. Back in the day freed slaves settled here so they could live as they wished with dancing, music and other symbols of their forbidden heritage. We joined a group of musicians and dancers who are part of a women’s initiative to preserve their ancestral traditions and provide a better future for the children.

Colourful dancers greeted us as and led us into a sand floored open structure; the cool ocean breeze was most welcome. The teachers of the group introduced us to the main themes of this music, the instruments used and the dances associated with them. Next it was our drum lesson and can you believe it but we were actually quite good.

A dance followed and we weren’t nearly as graceful or light footed as our demonstrators nevertheless it was all fun. As with everywhere else in Colombia the hosts were delighted, we were there and earnestly expressed their appreciation.

We had time to wander down to the water’s edge and touch the ocean. Our van got struck in the soft, dry sand of the casual beach road so that was fun watching the driver being towed back to firmer land.

The afternoon was our own to enjoy and explore more of Cartagena and the coastline.