Cuba, Panama & Costa Rica 2025

It’s a strange day when you leave on plane for a destination and arrive 5 hours before you left after an 11 hour flight – such is the case when you fly from Auckland, NZ to Santiago, Chile.

I won’t talk about the flight except to say my seating companion said he got no sleep however there were definitely snoring coming from the seat next to me. In the meantime, I got no sleep.

Arriving in Santiago it was the usually efficient processing through Passport control and customs – the Chileans know how to move a lot of people systemically without drama. Our bags were there, always a good start to an adventure, and we were through the spacious arrival hall and into the bright sunlight. A quick trot alongside the parking area and we were at our stopover hotel for a much needed lay down time.

Early Sunday morning (but who knew what real time it was after all the time/ date changes) and we were checked in and ready for our onward flights. I have tried to find out why the South American flights are so often in at 3am and the best answer seems to be because of the cooler, denser air at that time – I understand planes need air to fly and I’m okay with that.

Six hours and we were in Panama City, quick and smooth transit and we were on the short flight 2hr 30 to Cuba! I looked around the passengers and obviously noticed that we were in the minority – most people had the darker skin of South Americans or the heavier bodies of North Americans. When we landed in Havana the cabin the passengers started clapping – we weren’t sure if it was due to the plane landing safely or the people being pleased to be home – lets go with a safe return to their homeland.

Havana airport is small (the size of Auckland’s old domestic one) and it was a trot along the corridor and we were at Passport Control. First we had to show our arrival form to a row of people in white coats sitting at old school desks – odd but not difficult. On to Passport Control and here the lines snaked across the room but processing seemed quick if rather random. Once we got to the window and the official there realised we were undoubtedly foreign there was a cheery “Welcome to Cuba”. Another cheerful surprise was the quick delivery of our bags. Through the doors and we were outside! Yes we were finally in Cuba and the warm, humid air enveloped us. Our guide, Mila, was also there and we in a yellow Lada and off to our hotel.

First impressions. I was surprised there was a highway and along its edges spacious park areas, Everything looked old but the infrastructure was there. Old block soviet-style buildings appeared and passed and yet no people. There was also a surprising lack of traffic – a few buses, lots of Cadillacs, Ladas and some more modern cars. The crumbling ruins of colonial buildings were in the historical centre. Still few people about.

We arrived at our hotel and had to wait for the receptionist to return from her long lunch. Thankfully we got access to our room and had a chance to shower and rest before heading out into the streets of Havana.

On our walk in a loose circle around our hotel we saw the crumbling buildings and the once grand palaces, homes and buildings. Here and there amongst the faded facades were Art Decor motifs or decorative garlands but you had to look past the cracks and loose plaster. The streets were potholed and we couldn’t go far without being offered taxis or ‘free information’. Yes Havana is poor and neglected and yet the people seem resourceful and upbeat.

The day ended with a rain storm as the sun set and Havana changed into party mode. The streets were fill of people, some dancing to a Latin beat, others drinking in the brightly lit bars, others clustered in small family groups to chat.

Today was a designated recovery day so we that’s what we did. First a late breakfast and then a walk around the historic area. We chanced upon a domestic street with its old, decaying charm with pot holed lanes, people queuing to get into supermarkets & official buildings, portable shops and many dogs (and their deposits). Taking a left we suddenly found ourselves in clean streets, beautifully restored homes and lots of tourists – these two areas so close together and it could have been we would have missed that authentic side of daily life.

In the more touristy areas, we came across the dark ladies in their colourful clothes singing or slowly swaying. I later found out that slaves worn only white and the freed slaves the colourful clothes – so the ladies waiting for the tourists were a remainer of that period of Cuban history.

Back to the hotel for a siesta and recharge and then it was out into the sun for another walk along the sea front to Hotel National. This huge hotel high on a cliff face was once owned by the mafia and is a common place for foreigners to stay. The best part of the walk was the cold beer we had on the way back to the hotel – so welcome after the heat of the day.. mad dogs etc

The last stop of the day was dinner and again by chance we found a wonderful restaurant which had only been open 10 days. It happened to be Greek and the food mainly fish – an excellent choice: Iris Restaurant.

Today our guide was back and the day was planned with a walking tour followed by a ride in a Cadillac. Due to our walk yesterday we had some idea where we were and actually could take in more information. Havana has lots of history and many faces.

A refreshing break at midday had us ready for a ride in a Cadillac. Who should drive up but Jesus? It almost felt like a Country & Western song, “I came to Havana and Jesus took the wheel / I just need to find my dog and he’ll know how I feel.” (Jesus is a common name in Latin America) Anyway Jesus drove us around to the north and of course Revolution Square. We did pass by China town and for an excited moment I thought to myself “Ah Chinese tonight”, only to discover there is solely pasta and pizza in Chinatown. Pass the neighbourhoods of difference styles (American 30s, Russian blocks, wealthy embassies) until we reached the green area and Pina Coladas.

In the green area we were close to a river and on the riverbank were two men performing a ritual which seem to involve ringing a bell, pouring honey into the water, laying flowers in the river and saying prayers. Our guide told us that sometime the ritual can include a chicken sacrifice – happy not to see that one.

Back at the hotel it was siesta time before working out what we will do for New Years. One thing is for sure the Cubans are preparing for a good time.

Another bright and clear day as we headed across Havana to see a few quirky sites in the west. First stop was the huge Hotel National built with mafia money, the casino may be gone but the grandeur lives on.

Next stop John Lennon Park. During Castro’s time the Beetles’ music was banned in Cuba until Castro announced it was okay and this park was established. Ironically its in the area which translates as Forbidden.

I asked to visit Christopher Columbus cemetery and the guide kindly fitted it in. I thought it would be a quick in see the miracle grave and exit stage left – but no, a cemetery guide was required and we ended up with a very interesting walk around the main street of the cemetery. This place is the second largest cemetery in the South America, so I am grateful it wasn’t a full-on tour. We ended the walkabout with the miracle grave – a grave that was visited every day for 40 years when the wife passed away in childbirth. Even today this grave is visited daily and there are always flowers left.

Next unusual thing was the street where an artist wanted to honour the African religion brought by the slaves. Colours and images abound as well as bathtubs.

It was time for a trip under the river mouth to the far side and Spanish fortresses. The first one El Morro was built to defend the river mouth and therefore Havana. The second just down the road was built because of Captain Henry Morgan, the notorious pirate. He made himself very rich on plundering Spanish gold and he lived on this side of the river. The fortress the Spanish built was hugely expensive and the King of Spain, Charles III, was to say, “For the price it the fort much be so big the King should be able to see it from Spain.”

Strangely we were the only people in the extensive area with its double moats and huge buildings. Time for coffee and some shade.

Last stop was Christ on the hill overlooking Old Havan. Commissioned by Castro’s second wife this statue made of Italian marble stands alone on its hill. We trotted down the slope to the local ferry and joined the locals on the fast trip (10 mins) across the river to the city.

After a rest we ventured out for a bit of Linner (lunch and dinner) and managed to find the Pirate Cafe. An eclectic place with live music, cheap drinks and great food.

West, we went to this beautiful valley full of limestone structures and caves. The highway out of Havana was 3 lanes each way and in goodish condition, However, once we went further on the road became narrower and full of potholes. The roads are not busy and at times there are horse & carts, overloaded motorcycles and even some speedy bicycles. Houses out in the country are very small (barely 3 rooms) with a porch where one or two rocking chairs sat. The land was cultivated with rice, tobacco and sugar cane.

First stop was a tobacco farm and we walked from the young plants to the drying room to the place where the farmer can roll his private 10% (90% of the crop goes to the Government). I was astounded to learn a Cuban cigar can sell for US$220! Not being a smoker I can’t tell the quality of cigars but the ones from the farmer’s private collection impressed the guide.

On to a viewpoint of the valley and then a quick whip down to the valley floor to get ahead of the tour buses and access into the limestone caves. In the 70’s the Government made these natural caves into a tourist attraction so the floor is concreted and the way lit. At the end of the 200m into the cave is a boat ride – let’s just say all limestone caves have their natural delights; some have enhanced the natural aspects and others have not.

Lunch was next and we visited an organic restaurant set on the side of the valley. The views were panoramic, the food plentiful and delicious and the Pina Colada something else again. Paradise Organic Farm: highly recommended.

Last stop was the prehistoric wall painting which had nothing to do with early human attempts. Painted on the rock wall in the 20th century the mural is impressive by its size.

Back to Havana to end the day with another Pina Colada on the hotel roof watching the last of the sunset.